So, after months of
preparation—finding a home for Guinness, selling all the furniture, sending
boxes back to Canada, packing my bags, getting my key deposit back, paying all
the bills and buying a ticket to Thailand, I’m finally at the airport at the
check-in desk.
“Would you like a
window or aisle seat?”
“Window seat, please,”
I reply.
“Oh wait, I ‘m sorry,
sir, you’ll have to go to immigration…”
3 hours later, still
at the immigration desk, “No, you can’t leave Korea. You must go to the Yongsan
Police Station.”
Flight missed. $500
down the drain. My only consolation is I’m able to see The Dark Knight Rises on opening night. With everything going on, I
still manage to squeeze in the opening night of Batman.
The next day, after a
couple of hours at the police station, I get my criminal record. There are 3
charges being persecuted and one of them is for $4000! For obstructing the
duties of a police officer! WTF!? I was asleep outside like so many other
drunks in Seoul. Why do I get a
$4000 fine?
“You must go to the
Mapo district Prosecutor’s office and talk to Mr. Han.”
And a couple hours
later I’m back in the Jail system again (I briefly visited jail during March of 2012
for a 2 week period on an unrelated misunderstanding) where I must pay a $4000
fine or spend 80 days in jail. I can file an appeal (and I do), but that takes
time, so I’ll be here at least a week and chances are, when I’m released for my appeal, I’ll be picked up by
immigration and deported. Korean logic may be illogical, but it’s predictable.
Just choose the result that’s the opposite of common sense. Common sense says
that since my crimes are minor offences, it would save the taxpayers of Korea a
lot of money by letting me leave. As it stands, it costs the Korean taxpayer $50
per day to keep me incarcerated, for the next 80 days, plus the additional
costs to deport me. Being in jail is no fun, but on the other hand, I have free
room & board and my lungs and liver are pretty thankful after 25 years of
abuse to be free of cigarettes and alcohol for at least a week, if not 3
months. I may just quit smoking permanently as a result and then my wallet will be
thanking me too, if I ever get back to Canada at $10 per pack of smokes.
So, here I sit in my
cell. When I was being processed (given my prison uniform and all of my
belongings cataloged and stored away), some of the guards recognized me from
my previous visit. I guess they don’t get too many foreigners that are repeat
offenders.
At least this time, I know what to expect.
They (the guards) keep asking me if I like Korean food.I keep answering “No.”
On the menu posted in my cell, there are 21 meals. 19 of them mention some form
of watery soup or “guk”. 17 meals mention kimchi. One thing not mentioned, but
guaranteed at all 21 meals is rice. I was asked if I like milk, eggs &
bread. I’m not falling for that one again. Milk, eggs, & bread 3x a day is
no better than rice, kimchi and soup 3x a day. Variety is not a part of the
vocabulary here. At least pizza has multiple food groups involved. It’s not
just plain baked bread. Same with a cheeseburger. There’s meat, cheese, bread,
maybe some pickles and ketchup. It’s not just a slice of meat. Rice is just
that – a bowl of plain, sticky, bland rice. Kimchi is no better—essentially
rotting cabbage mixed with hot pepper paste. It makes me fart a lot. What
passes for soup is usually under-cooked potato and turnip in a bowl of hot
water.
For lunch one day, we
had some sort of potato, onion, & turnip salad and then for dinner that same day,
we had the same concoction in a bowl of hot water. And that was considered a
meal. They may as well just serve me bread & water. Oh wait, they did just
offer to serve me that instead…
My cell is a little
over 2 metres by 1 metre. If I stretch my arms over my head and place my feet
against the door, I can touch my cell end to end. If I put my shoulder against
the wall and stretch my arm to the side, I can touch the other wall. In addition,
there is a small room half again as wide and about 1.5 M long that has a toilet, one
cold water tap coming out of the wall and a drain in the floor. It also has a
glass door, so I can pretend to have some privacy from the CCTV cameras in the
ceiling 2.5 M above me. I also have a small enclave that has a shelf and a
wall-mounted flat screen TV. There is no bed. I have two blankets instead and I
use one of them as a mattress.
I spend 23 hours a day
in this cell. I eat, wash my dishes, clothes, body and shit in this cell. I
get to go out for one hour a day to exercise in a small graveled courtyard, but usually, I just read the paper and enjoy the fresh air and sun.
They have some stupid
rules. 3 times a day, the block warden checks the cells. When this happens, I
have to fold my blankets and wear a shirt designating my cell block, cell
number and inmate number. I must sit cross-legged with my back against the
furthest wall facing the door. If I don’t do this procedure exactly, they get
really upset and yell at me until I comply. I have no watch or clock, so this is
my only indication of time. It happens at 6:30 am, 8:15 am and 5:00 pm. I
constantly wonder why they get so upset when I don’t do what they want. It’s
not like they can take away any privileges—I have none to begin with, and the
radio and TV I am allowed is more like torture than a luxury. The radio has no volume
control since it's piped into my cell from a speaker mounted in the ceiling, and plays k-pop constantly. The TV has only one channel that shows every program in Korean so I don’t understand any of it. Any foreign programs
are all dubbed into Korean, except for the odd movie shown Saturday night, so
it’s pointless anyway.
When the day is over
at 9:00 pm, the TV automatically shuts off. It’s automatically turned on at
certain times of the day as well—another good indicator of what time it is. An hour
later, the lights are dimmed. Not turned off, just turned down. They remain
like that until 6:30 am the next morning. This is the worst part of my day. I
don’t sleep well to begin with and I usually only sleep 6 or so hours. This
means I spend most of the night staring up at the ceiling wondering what time it
is. If I’m lucky, someone may have given me an English language newspaper the
day before. By morning, I have read every article, cover to cover, at least
half a dozen times.
I have no contact with
the outside world and only two people know where I am because I was able to
send brief messages before being locked up. The person serving my meals is also
an inmate. He’s pretty young and says he used to live in Vancouver. He’s out in
2 years on drug charges. He tries to bring me a newspaper every day and
sometimes he brings me snacks and coffee. He gave me this pen so I could at
least write and draw. I don’t know his name.
None of the guards
speak English, but every so often they get something right and there is great
celebration and a slapping of backs. My fellow inmate and I look at each other
and snicker. Some of the guards are idiots as guards tend to be. They are on a
power trip, evident by the cell check procedure.
Your cell and your time in jail sound like exactly one word: supersucky.
ReplyDeleteDamn. Did you get back on the bottle after you got out of the slammer, or did you give up booze for good? And would you ever want to go back to Korea to teach again after your life went down the shitter the first go-round (are you allowed back in?). Glad you made it out and that you took time to share your story.
ReplyDeleteIt wasn't the booze that got me in the slammer-- it was my refusal to pay the extortion money by the racist police and person I allegedly assaulted. I don't go around starting fights just to fight, but I'm too stubborn to back down from someone pushing my buttons, too.
ReplyDeleteIf I had $8000, I never would have gone to jail. And, I'm drinking a glass of wine right now, as I write this... but I permanently quit smoking and lost 15 lbs. I'm in better shape now than I've ever been in my entire adulthood.
As for teaching in Korea, teaching is an easy gig-- too easy to get too comfortable in the 'lax lifestyle. I'll probably teach English again somewhere in Asia (Asia is a big place), but I'll never be going back to Korea again. Even if I wanted to go back, I've been banned for at least 3 years due to my deportation
I hear ya on the lax lifestyle of teaching English in Korea. My stint started out fine, but it didn't take long before I was out boozing on a near daily basis, usually to the point of blacking out, and delving into hookers, room salons, and all the other messed up "entertainment" options in that country. I wasn't alone. I met a staggering number of expats pick up all sorts of addictions- booze, sex, tobacco- and weird fetishes.
ReplyDeleteSome were fucked up before arriving at Incheon, but many arrived "straight-edged" and were just looking for some adventure and a way to make a few bucks after college. Then, before long, they completely fell off the wagon. There's something about the culture and lifestyle of the place that can really fuck people up like no other.
You get used to the regular paycheck and easy work. Before long you're out till dawn on a Tuesday getting shitcanned. I couldn't stand living there without getting trashed on a regular basis, but then when I sobered up I had to ask myself "What the fuck am I doing here?" When I couldn't answer that, I always went back to the bottle. What else could I do?
I've never taught anywhere else, but I can't imagine there's another country out there that can fuck with a person like Korea. Good to hear you made it out and get a chance to move on with your life.
I will say that I've passed out in the streets of Seoul at least a dozen times, often in Itaewon. I was never messed with by the cops. And of course I can't count the number of times I had to step over a salaryman passed out in his own vomit on the sidewalk on my way to school in the morning. It's unlikely they were hassled either. So the officer that gave you a hard time is a real cocksucker. You did the right thing in not paying.
Exactly. But in the officer's defence, it was January. He was making sure I wouldn't freeze to death, not really hassling me. I didn't object to the fine itself, just the amount of the fine was beyond any reasonable amount, as were all the fines.
ReplyDeleteThe prison warden explained to me that most Koreans get their family members to help, or a bank loan to pay the fines. As a foreigner, those options were not available to me. I tried every option I was presented with, only to find most of the time, those options were only available to Koreans.
There's more to come in later posts. This is only day 4 out of 260
Great blog! I've forwarded the link to many friends; I'm on assignment in Korea and can sympathize with your plight! Good luck in your next endeavors!
ReplyDelete